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Ever aback Nate Tullar was a toddler, aback adults asked him what he capital to be aback he grew up, he knew what to acquaint them. In the ’50s, Tullar’s grandparents, George and Barbara, had boughtTullando Farm, a dairy acreage amid forth the Connecticut River in Orford, a boondocks in northwest New Hampshire, and started out bribery a dozen cows; his parents, Rendell and Karen, had taken up the business afterwards them. Tullar grew up bribery and agriculture cows, and assuming them at fairs. He knew he would be a dairy farmer, too.

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These days, this affectionate of career confidence is one—perhaps the only—logical acumen for a adolescent being to become a dairy farmer, abnormally at the small-scale dairy operations of the Northeast and Midwest. The aerial bulk of barns, acreage equipment, and cows, additional airy prices for milk and feed, accolade beyond operations that can advance assembly costs over added animals. In 1987, 202,068 farms produced about 144 billion pounds of milk, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture; by 2017, aloof 40,219 farms fabricated 215 billion pounds of milk. While dairy farms had a average of 80 or below beasts in 1987, that bulk added to 900 beasts added than a quarter-century later. Nowadays, dairies in the West and Southwest can accept 15,000 or 20,000 bribery cows, Dave Swartz, an abettor administrator of programs for beastly systems with Penn State Extension told me.

Tullando Acreage is amid the smaller-scale farms that backward in business.I visited Tullar, who is 38, on a blah summer day. He greeted me in a Red Sox shirt, Carhartt pants, steel-toed boots, and a red hat, in the Tullando Acreage office. Central afraid a chicken and dejected banner, formed with the Tullars’ name, 1956 enactment date, and their constant motto: “In Beasts We Trust.”

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While Tullar was growing up, he watched his parents and grandparents aggrandize their assemblage size, body new barns, and embrace the latest technologies. In 2000, Tullar accelerating from the University of New Hampshire’s dairy-management affairs to activate alive full-time at the farm. The dairy’s agenda included six- or seven-hour sessions bribery over 400 cows, three times a day. Tullar was on the morning shift—“from four to ten,” he said.

Tullar gradually began allowance his parents administer the dairy while his adolescent sister, Emily Gray, kept clue of finances. Tullando Acreage has a connected history of demography accelerating accomplish to break in the dairy business, which is why, in accession to adopting best practices for clay health, beasts genetics, and beastly comfort, the Tullars absitively to computerize as abundant as their operation as possible. In 2012, they congenital an astronomic new free-stall barn with thermostat-controlled admirers and curtains, automatic manure-scrapers, and spinning, barbate chicken brushes that beasts rub up adjoin aback they charge a scratch.

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In 2014, the Tullar ancestors completed the last, and conceivably best dramatic, footfall in their abiding advance plan: They bought eight cow-milking robots alleged Astronauts, invented by the Dutch aggregation Lely in 1992. For three, 24-hour canicule afterwards the robots’ arrival, Lely advisers helped Tullando Acreage assemblage every one of their 480 beasts into and out of the new bribery machines, three times anniversary day, to get the animals acquainted. At three months, aggregate was alive the way it was declared to. These days, a cardinal of European and North American manufacturers advertise automatic milkers, which are acclimated by an estimated 4.5 percent of dairy operations in the United States (including Tullando Farm), Joao Costa, an abettor assistant at the University of Kentucky who researches dairy-precision technology, told me.

Over the four years aback then, changes in the all-around abridgement and a excess in the calm bazaar accept placed added burden on those, like the Tullars, who accept asperous the industry’s longer-term restructuring. Historically, able prices advance to added milk assembly one year, crowd lowers the bulk the aing two years, again prices rebound. But three years ago, Europe alone a allocation arrangement that had bound the bulk of aqueous milk farmers could produce. That action, accumulated withRussia’s 2014 embargo on European Union products, decimated appeal away for U.S. dairy products—and it came as bodies in the U.S. were bubbler below milk. All this disconnected the accustomed three-year aeon for federal milk prices. Other contempo events, such as Admiral Trump’s barter war and Canada’s, China’s, and Mexico’s castigating tariffs on U.S. dairy, haven’t bigger matters. Aftermost week, however, the Trump administering agreed to assurance the new United States-Mexico-Canada Barter Agreement, which is accepted to accessible up added Canadian dairy bazaar admission for U.S. farmers by 2020.

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U.S. dairy cooperatives—businesses endemic and operated by affiliate dairy farmers to bazaar their milk—have had to aing associates to new farmers and in some cases, alike dump surplus milk. “We’ve never absolutely had an connected four-year aeon area there weren’t things we could do in the U.S.,” Bob Wellington, an agronomical economist and a carnality admiral at the northeast dairy accommodating Agri-Mark, said.  

Increasingly, abounding farms can’t activity job aegis for adolescent bodies like Tullar. “The botheration is they don’t accept the assets to abutment the kids advancing aback on the farm,” Wellington said. He added that some Agri-Mark farmers acquire an assets low abundant to accomplish them acceptable for aliment stamps. Afterwards a affiliate agriculturalist committed suicide this accomplished winter, Wellington included a account of brainy bloom and suicide blockage assets in Agri-Mark’s February associates letter.

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Despite the abounding economics (and emotions), there abide adolescent farmers who are accommodating to booty the risk. Some assignment additional jobs off the farm. Others alter with value-added articles like meat, maple, or yogurt, or they advance in their own bottling bulb to direct-market milk in the old-timey bottle jugs that allege anon to a assertive affectionate of consumer’s buy-local, know-your-food, support-your-farmer tendencies.

Nate Tullar continues his ancestors legacy. On my bout of Tullando Farm, we anesthetized a behemothic red cow bronze that stood aloof alfresco the acreage office—a allowance from Lely. Aloof central the barn and beyond the alley from some chewing cows, I spotted a anchored red-and-gray apparatus that looked like R2-D2; Tullar told me it was an out-of-commission pusher that, aback working, keeps augment aural ability of cows’ mouths. As for the Astronauts, Tullar led me to the centermost of the barn and into the long, attenuated bribery parlor so I could see them in action. While the machinery’s pumping ability and actinic food lived on the attic above, the eight red, refrigerator-like housings for the milk lined either ancillary of the first-floor aisle.

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Next to anniversary Astronaut case, a accumbent gap in the bank offered a window into the automatic bribery process. A cow absolved into the stall-like asylum and blimp her face in some atom while the rear aboideau bankrupt abaft her. Next, the automatic arm swung below her abdomen and bankrupt her udder with spinning brushes and achromatize disinfectant. Red lasers amid her four teats afore cups suctioned assimilate anniversary one. She connected bistro as the apprentice pumped the milk. Eventually, one by one, the teat cups alone off and the cow accustomed an iodine spray. The stall’s advanced aboideau again opened and the cow went on her way.

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“Before we put in the robots, we didn’t accept abundant help,” Tullar said. While the Lely Astronauts appropriate a “substantial investment”—between $150,000 and $200,000 for anniversary robot, not including barn costs—Tullar said they accomplish up for four full-time employees. Using an app on his phone, which advance the atramentous transponders that adhere from anniversary cow’s close like a bell, Tullar knows what’s activity on with his animals at all times: aback they’re sick, in heat, or affective about too abundant for the apprentice teat cups to get a acceptable grip. And now, instead of herding them and hooking up the bribery machines by hand, he has the time to airing amid and beam his free-roaming cows, who like to appear up and ask for a pat.

“We charge to be added able as an industry, and that is a absolutely acceptable way to do so,” Costa told me. Dairies accept struggled to absorb employees, as farms generally can’t bout accomplishment at warehouses or fast-food chains, and robots advice break that problem. In the future, Costa expects technology to not alone accomplish the chiral jobs and booty bottomward abstracts for farmers, but to accommodate all that advice and accomplish administration decisions easier and faster. “We’re activity to depend below on animal labor,” he said.

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Amid all this change, Tullar is aggravating to adhere assimilate some affinity of what his grandparents started. What keeps him from anxious about the accessories aliment activity undone, robots still to be paid off, and the stubbornly low milk prices, he said, is appealing simple: the tractor, the fields, the cows. Aloof afore the rain came that August afternoon, I followed Tullar accomplished an open acid wire fence, through alpine grass and wildflowers and into one of his grandparents’ old pastures adjoining the river and cornfields. He alleged out, “C’mon girls!” at the 20 dry beasts agriculture forth the timberline band and waited for them to amble over. Gathered in a apart semi-circle, Tullar’s assemblage apprenticed their wet noses to his arms, his legs, his face. “They aloof ambition I had grain,” he said, but I wasn’t so abiding that was true. I didn’t see them bundle the robots like that.

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